Monday, August 28, 2006
Sunday, August 27, 2006
Thursday, August 17, 2006
Fri-Mon sail to St. Michaels and Oxford
Liz and I are sailing to St. Michaels and Oxford this weekend. If you hear of any storms blowing in, don't be shy. Give us a call.
We're going to dock on Saturday at Annie and John's house, which apparently is right down the street from Cheney's new hideout. If we see him, we'll be sure to wave, and then duck.
We're going to dock on Saturday at Annie and John's house, which apparently is right down the street from Cheney's new hideout. If we see him, we'll be sure to wave, and then duck.
Friday, July 14, 2006
DC to Blue Water Marina - 1024 Carrs Wharf Rd - Edgewater, MD
Blue Water Marina
1024 Carrs Wharf Road
Edgewater, MD 21037-4599
Take HWY 50 towards Annapolis
Turn off of 50 at the Davidsonville Exit
Turn Left on to the Central Ave/Hwy 214.
Right on Carrs Wharf Road at St. Andrews Fisherman's Church - just past the Old Stein Restaurant.
Follow the road until it turns sharply to the left -- BUT DON'T turn left. Go straight another 10 feet and then turn right into the Blue Water Marina driveway.
You'll see parking just down a slight hill -- at the first parking area on your left. Look for our Blue Honda Element.
Once you are at the water, we are on the second to last pier to your left if you're facing the water. It's the pier right before the picnic table. Once on the pier, our boat is four or five boats down on the right.
The name of the boat is the Queen Vic.
1024 Carrs Wharf Road
Edgewater, MD 21037-4599
Take HWY 50 towards Annapolis
Turn off of 50 at the Davidsonville Exit
Turn Left on to the Central Ave/Hwy 214.
Right on Carrs Wharf Road at St. Andrews Fisherman's Church - just past the Old Stein Restaurant.
Follow the road until it turns sharply to the left -- BUT DON'T turn left. Go straight another 10 feet and then turn right into the Blue Water Marina driveway.
You'll see parking just down a slight hill -- at the first parking area on your left. Look for our Blue Honda Element.
Once you are at the water, we are on the second to last pier to your left if you're facing the water. It's the pier right before the picnic table. Once on the pier, our boat is four or five boats down on the right.
The name of the boat is the Queen Vic.
Call if you need help, 202 841 9395 or 202 841 9395.
Wednesday, June 14, 2006
How to change the oil on the Yamaha
From: Damon Fodge [mailto:damon_fodge @ hotmail dot commie] Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 1:08 PMTo: Franklin AdamsCc: andy at dcjob dottie comSubject: RE: ches bay
It may be better to give tips on the phone, or to actually show you. I'll try though:
- Make sure you have a good socket. You'll need an extender, cuz the drain bolt is lodged up into a sort of compartment. I have an extender, and think it should fit your engine cuz ours are both Yamahas. you can use it. Just go onto my boat, and open my tool set (old tan tackle box)
- locate the engine oil drain bolt while the engine is in the upward position. you might even want to give it a couple of cranks to loosen it here. the oil won't start to drain until the bolt is almost completely unscrewed.
- it's easiest with 2 people. lower engine prop into water, then unscrew the cap. have one person hold a 5 gallon bucket under the drain bolt in order to catch the draining oil (unless you don't mind it going into the bay!). Also, this is useful in case the bolt drops out of engine -- it'll go into the bucket, not the bay. For your boat, the engine might be so far away from the transom that you'll need a little barge from Chilly, or you can borrow my canoe. Who knows.
- keep unscrewing with the socket wrench until the bolt is out. you might be able to finish it off with your fingers, but the bolt is positioned very high up into a comparment, making it difficult to grab with fingers.
- Once bolt is out, just let the mother fucker drain into the 5 gallon bucket.
- once empty, obviously, replace bolt.
- re-filling might sound easy, but it might not be. MAKE SURE you don't overfill the oil pan, because draining it back out is a very tedious process. i found this out the hard way. I wouldn't trust what the manual says, because mine called for WAY too much oil---and that can damage the engine. I'd sight the amount you think it needs and on the dip stick prior to draining, then just re-fill by sight and by putting the dip stick in and out 'til it's full enough.
Oh, and don't just use car motor oil. Go to West Marine and purchase some good oil that clearly says for four stroke outboard engines. The marine oil has some extra fancy stuff that protects it from the salt and elements.
So I assume your engine's oil hasn't been changed yet. I'm SURE you have at least 10 hours on it, so it's time. For mine, it ran so much smoother after replacing the oil, that I literally felt guilty. But yours runs so smooth as it is ...
Does that make any sense?
It may be better to give tips on the phone, or to actually show you. I'll try though:
- Make sure you have a good socket. You'll need an extender, cuz the drain bolt is lodged up into a sort of compartment. I have an extender, and think it should fit your engine cuz ours are both Yamahas. you can use it. Just go onto my boat, and open my tool set (old tan tackle box)
- locate the engine oil drain bolt while the engine is in the upward position. you might even want to give it a couple of cranks to loosen it here. the oil won't start to drain until the bolt is almost completely unscrewed.
- it's easiest with 2 people. lower engine prop into water, then unscrew the cap. have one person hold a 5 gallon bucket under the drain bolt in order to catch the draining oil (unless you don't mind it going into the bay!). Also, this is useful in case the bolt drops out of engine -- it'll go into the bucket, not the bay. For your boat, the engine might be so far away from the transom that you'll need a little barge from Chilly, or you can borrow my canoe. Who knows.
- keep unscrewing with the socket wrench until the bolt is out. you might be able to finish it off with your fingers, but the bolt is positioned very high up into a comparment, making it difficult to grab with fingers.
- Once bolt is out, just let the mother fucker drain into the 5 gallon bucket.
- once empty, obviously, replace bolt.
- re-filling might sound easy, but it might not be. MAKE SURE you don't overfill the oil pan, because draining it back out is a very tedious process. i found this out the hard way. I wouldn't trust what the manual says, because mine called for WAY too much oil---and that can damage the engine. I'd sight the amount you think it needs and on the dip stick prior to draining, then just re-fill by sight and by putting the dip stick in and out 'til it's full enough.
Oh, and don't just use car motor oil. Go to West Marine and purchase some good oil that clearly says for four stroke outboard engines. The marine oil has some extra fancy stuff that protects it from the salt and elements.
So I assume your engine's oil hasn't been changed yet. I'm SURE you have at least 10 hours on it, so it's time. For mine, it ran so much smoother after replacing the oil, that I literally felt guilty. But yours runs so smooth as it is ...
Does that make any sense?
Sunday, June 11, 2006
Sunday, June 04, 2006
Thursday, June 01, 2006
damn, i didn't know that they got medievel on his ass...
At 3.50am, the team gave Horrevoets a shot of adrenalin in a desperate last attempt to keep him alive.
Tuesday, May 30, 2006
Memorial Day weekend pictures, part 2
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